Category: Uncategorized (Page 15 of 17)

Generally speaking banking can be a frustrating endeavor in any country, but I suspect that Saudi has most countries beat. We have a bank on the hospital compound, and several ATMs throughout the hospital. Unfortunately, given the delay of getting my Igama (permanent residence card) I have been bank-accountless the last 3 months. Basically this means that when I get issued my old-school paychecks I have to head over to the bank and cash the entire monthly salary and then bribe or sweet talk someone (thanks Katie!!) to wire my money for me. Sounds simple enough right……well with most things in Saudi this would be a dead wrong assumption. So you head over to the bank and unless you are crazy, or desperate for cash, you avoid going within a couple days of payday. Sadly, I was the latter so I bravely headed over the day after payday. I had heard that the day before things were really out of hand and that the police had almost been called because there were so many people packed in and no one was cuing. This I can definitely believe.

So anyways, I get to the bank and take a ticket from the cuing machine, which seems like a foolproof idea to keep things orderly except that often times men (in particular) act as though it is below them to wait in line, and just walk right up, or cut to the front. Often times said men are wearing a destinguishable white lab coat. So, there are 4 tellers, and its quite rare to see all the tellers open at once. From my astute observations skills this is how things seem to work. The teller signals the teaboy who brings tea, and the teller takes a sip of tea. He then adjusts this head scarf. His mobile phone rings he answers it. Chats. Takes a sip of tea. Calls a customer forward. Helps customer. Sends a text. Sips tea. Adjusts head scarf. Customer. Repeat. Its fascinating. And equally frustrating. Now to be fair, they might be making work related calls. I have no idea. And since I’ve never worn a male head scarf on my head I can’t fairly comment on the degree of skill is takes to keep them properly balanced in place. So finally, finally its my turn. I go up to cash my cheque. The teller informs me that he has just run out of cash. And I’m like “ha ha, very funny” and then I remember that Saudi’s don’t often crack jokes, so to convince me he shows me his empty cash drawer. He calls over to his colleague a couple seats down (who has headphones in) and requests more cash. Headphone guy is not quick to respond (I imagine he did not hear him). Again a request for cash is made. Tick toc. So while I’m standing there the teller asks me if I want a cookie. And well, there’s nothing else to do so, yeah, I’ll eat a cookie. So I do. And it’s tasty. And then the teller says “a sweet for a sweet.” Huh. That’s a new one for me. So by this point the cash guy finally comes over with several stacks of bills. And the teller informs me that the bank is out of 500 riyal notes (the largest bills they have- worth about $125US) and that all they have are 100 riyal notes (worth about $25US.) So literally, my entire monthly pay was given to me in $25US increments. I had 2 thick bricks of bills by the time he was done. Held together by elastics bands, gangster style. I took them home and spent the afternoon resisting laying on my bed and throwing the bills up in the air to make it rain money. The only thing preventing me from doing this is that money is super dirty and the fear that I might lose some behind the bed.

On Saturday I went back to the bank because the bank is open for a couple hours in the morning and seeing as the Saudi weekend is Friday/Saturday I figured it would be quiet and I could open my account without any major incidents. Haha! My optimism about Saudi sometimes is hilarious. It’s almost like I forget what a complete cluster most things are and expect opening a bank account to be a smooth process. So I take a ticket and sit. Its 9:15am and the bank opens at 9am. 9:30 rolls on and the money is still being counted, and none of the female customers have been helped. 9:45 and then I realize that the area designated for opening new accounts is empty- empty of employees. So I stroll over to customer service to make sure that they do actually open accounts on the weekend. And the guys says yes, there are 2 guys scheduled. And I’m like “what time do they start?” And he’s like “9am” and then my brain clues in and I ask “what time do they usually show up, or rather do they actually show up?” And all the nice customer service guy can do is direct me to the managers office. Who calls the guys. And gets no answer. And so I leave. And so this week when I’m feeling an abundance of patience I will try and open a bank account. For now I’ll just count my stacks of cash and pretend that I’m loaded.

Saudi is both an endlessly fascinating and frustrating place. The only real way for a westerner to cope is to see the humour in it. It’s pretty hard to stay angry when you’re laughing about the absurdness of a situation. At least that has proved to be my best coping skill. Also next week I’m heading to Cyprus and Qatar for a lovely week and a half!! Yeah!!

RIP. 1924-2015

So yesterday it was announced that King Abdullah died here in Riyadh just shortly after midnight. I woke up Friday morning with several messages from friends back home informing me, and asking if things were ok. The event was not unexpected as earlier this month he was admitted to hospital with reported pneumonia and was placed on a ventilator. He was 90 years old when he passed. King Abdullah was much beloved by the people of Saudi Arabia. He was buried yesterday in Riyadh following a funeral prayer at Asr prayer time (the afternoon). In keeping with religious traditions he was swathed in white cloth and buried in an unmarked grave prior to the next sundown. Only males are allowed to visit the grave. Memorial services have also been planned in Riyadh over the next few days allowing for the public to attend and diplomats from the International community.

King Salman the former Crown Prince was sworn in as the new King yesterday after evening prayers. King Salman is himself in his late 70’s. He takes the throne at a time when Saudi Arabia is surrounded by tensions to the North in Iraq and the growing tensions to its southern border Yemen. Inshallah this transition will be a smooth one….

So I’m sure you’ve been asking yourself “I wonder whatever happened with Kristine’s Saudi paperwork nightmare?” Well, let me assure you, it’s been nothing short of exciting. The other day I went to the passport office to inquire as to whether my Igama was ready. In the event that you’re confused or just reading my blog for the first time an Igama is a residency card. You need this card to open a bank account and get an exit/re-entry visa to allow you to leave the country. Seeing as my 90 days of being in the Kingdom have passed and I’m still bank accountless I’m very keen to do both these things. So I’m at the passport office and they tell me that yes, my Igama is processed and the lovely lady goes into the back to get it, and while she’s gone I’m basically high-fiving myself over my amazing luck that this bloody ordeal is now over. In hindsight the mental high-fiving was maybe not such a good idea. Because the lady comes back, and she’s got a card in her hand. And its an Igama. My Igama. And she’s completing the paperwork, and then she says these dreaded words…..”your name wrong on card.” And I’m like, lady don’t joke with me. I can read my name and its spelt right. And she says “Arabic name is wrong.” And I can’t confirm or deny this because, the only Arabic I read are numbers, and last time I checked my last name didn’t have any numbers in it. So I calmly ask her how big of a problem this is, and what can we do about it. And she says “bank will not accept” and that it would take another 7 business days to get the name changed. And because I didn’t know what else to do my eyes welled up, and I tried not to cry out of sheer frustration. And then I asked to speak to the man who originally helped organize my papers. So I was led into a back office where I was handed a magnifying glass (no joke) and was shown where the mistakes were made (even though I still can’t read Arabic). I was then instructed that the mistake was likely not that big of a deal and when I said “but I need to open a bank account” the reply was “just don’t tell them the name is wrong, maybe they won’t notice.” Solid advice.

So I crawled back to the office of a lovely secretary who works for my department and told her my sob story. She made a phone call to someone in charge and walked me back over to the passport department. All the while holding my hand. Hand holding is very common here, not man-woman, but woman-woman, and man-man. Even though it’s common it still feels a little odd, but I knew she was trying to make me feel better about the situation. So we went to a guys office. It was fancy. I told him my sad story. He made a phone call. After he hung up he said the correction would take 24 hours. That was last week. I’m still waiting. Fingers crossed tomorrow. It’s all so frustrating, as per my contract I can’t leave the country for 90 days. Well that 90 days are over and I should be able to leave but I’m trapped until it all gets straightened out. I have vacation coming up the beginning of February as my kiwi sidekick and I are going to Cyprus……if I can get this paperwork all sorted in time. So the saga continues………

Saudi Arabia……one continuous lesson in patience.

If you don’t know much about Saudi you likely know this one fact; that its a dry country. Dry as in alcohol is illegal, the locals don’t often get my humour, and much of the country is covered by desert. So you’re probably thinking if alcohol is illegal what could you possibly do for fun?? I get asked this question a lot…..especially since Saudi is located next to some of the best (Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Beirut) and most dodgy (Bahrain) nightlife in the Middle East. Oddly, your social life in Saudi is mostly what you make of it, and mine is shockingly better than it ever was when I lived in the US and Canada. Yes. I’m dead serious.

First off, the other ex-pats you meet are often like minded people. They are often adventurous, out-going, well traveled, and you’ll easily make friends from all over the world. Networking is a big part of having a social life here, but even a shy introverted person here will likely be flooded with invites to many different things. There are embassy and compound parties. These can be casual, or themed (Halloween, Mardi Gas), or they can even be formal events (when was the last time you went to a ball or gala?) There are book clubs, hiking clubs, photography clubs, cooking clubs. You could learn to golf, or take flying lessons, or take a turn in the saddle and take riding lessons. There are loads of activities that take place in the desert- I went ATVing when I first got here, and it was great fun. There are overnight camping trips and in the eastern province you can go digging for desert roses.

Movie theaters don’t exist in Saudi, but there are movie clubs on some of the compounds and the hospital I work at has a movie night ever Thursday…..but only for ladies. I’ve yet to go but if they get 50 shades of Grey when it comes out I’ll be sure to check it out. Oh wait, the entire movie will be censored. Dang it. If you’re a foodie there are many good restaurants here in Riyadh, but to be honest, its hard for me to get super jazzed about a good meal if I don’t have a nice glass of wine to pair it with. There are many fabulous brunch places.

So if you were worried that I was going crazy from boredom, rest assured I’m not. If you’re considering taking a job here in Riyadh you’ll have endless things to do. In fact some days I need another day off to recover from how busy my days off were. Also, to update you about my previous Saudi paperwork nightmare, I have submitted papers to get my Igama (permanent residence card). I am told that inshallah it will come tomorrow. Unfortunately, I was also told the exact some line yesterday. And the day before yesterday. But fingerscrossed it comes this week!! To Be Continued………

This is going to be a bit of a vent session. Today was a hard day. Nothing went to plan. Sometimes days are just like that. I’ve been in Saudi for 10 weeks now, and there are many, many rules. One of them is that we’re not allowed to leave the country for 90 days, until we’ve completed the probationary period. Part of the 3 month period is that we apply for our Saudi Health Council (basically like a nursing board back home) except that we continue to practice off our home nursing license. Anything we do here that isn’t legal would in theory affect our nursing license in our home country. So we file a ton of paperwork to get “licensed” here but its mostly just for show, and quite possibly because Saudi loves them some paperwork. My application was delayed as we needed to have a current American Heart Association CPR certificate and it took about a month before there was an opening for me to get in to a class. So 5 weeks ago I submitted all my paperwork. And now I wait……..as literally all my friends have gotten theirs. And in theory you would think mine would be fast as its just a renewal as I’ve previously had this Saudi Health Council thingy. But no. So I wait. And I can’t apply for my permanent residence card (otherwise known as an Igama) until I get this temporary license. And I can’t leave the country without an exit/re-entry visa, which I can’t get until I get an Igama. And I have no bank account here because……you guessed it…..you need an Igama to open a bank account, and you need your Saudi Health Council to get an Igama. And so the loop of bureaucracy continues. And I have leave coming up in a month. And I came here to travel. So I wait. And swear under my breath at the inefficiency of this system.

So then to top it all off I’ve had a headache (I’m sure unrelated to a New Years party last night) and I’m out of Advil, so I headed to the pharmacy on the hospital property and I arrived at prayer time. And it was closed. So I walked home, and then I tripped on my abaya on the stairs. And then I cried, because some days are hard. And its harder when nothing is familiar and you’re in a foreign culture where everything is the way it is even though the way it is isn’t very logical to a foreign mind. But tomorrow is a new day, and today is a new year so as the age old Saudi saying goes…..inshallah I will get my Saudi Health council next week. Inshallah.

Mada’in Saleh is one of 3 UNESCO heritage sites in Saudi Arabia. It’s located about 20km from  Al Ula and was part of the Nabatean Kingdom, with Petra in Jordan being the capital. It predates Islam and is believed to be from the 1st century AD. Tha Nabatean’s were believed to control vital trade routes and were a nomadic people. It’s hard to compare Mada’in Saleh to Petra. When you visit Petra you wind your way through the rock walls and the suspense builds up until you walk into an opening and are awe-struck by the Treasury. The entire area is walkable although you need a couple days to really do it justice. Mada’in Saleh is quite different. First off, you drive into the site, and you can park right in front of the tombs. A few have designated parking areas, but the majority you can have front row parking. Much of the actual city has yet to be excavated, as it remains covered by layers of sand. It is thought that the tombs were the only permanent structures of the kingdom, and that the actual homes were more of an adobe style.

When you first drive into the site you pass the remnants of the Hejaz railway that was constructed in the early 1900s to connect Damascus to Medina. It was designed by German engineers but the line was never completed after a portion of it was damaged during the 1st World War. It’s interesting to see the German architecture of the remaining buildings and know that not far from there are the tombs from the Nabatean Kingdom. We of course stopped, and took photos of each of us climbing on the restored train that is there. If was fun to watch other Saudi tourists (mostly men wearing thobes) also climbing onto the train and taking seflies.

From here we drove on further and came to the first set of tombs. Tombs from the Nabatean era bare hallmark signs. They are carved out of a rock face. The front of the tombs are quite plain in nature with strong geometrical lines. Some of the tombs were adorned with wings and what I can imagine would have been an eagle or falcon were the head of the sculpture still attached. The tops of most tombs were cared with a series of 5 steps, while the inside of the tombs there were shelves carved out where the dead were housed. The tombs ranged from commoner, to upper class to royalty with some of the tombs having burial chambers outside for slaves. There are several different tomb sights to visit. Some house several tombs that encompass huge rocks. My favourite and I’m sure most people was Qasr Farid which is the largest single standing tomb. It’s visible from quite a distance.

The last place we visited were the temples in the area of Diwan. This is the site where cult practices took place and the area is made up of unique rock formations that very much reminded me of prehistoric times. There’s a narrow passageway that opens into a open area surrounded by towering rocks with a dam at the far side. We hiked to the top of one on the rock formations (not the easiest of feats in an abaya.) The views from the top were spectacular.

Mada’in Saleh is well worth the trip. Go in the winter months when the temperatures are tolerable. The guide books have it right- if you only do one thing when you’re in Saudi Arabia this is it. I regretted not seeing it on my first Saudi tour of duty and am so glad that I went. So go. Go now while you have the chance!!

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!! This time of year is always hard when you’re away from home and those you are closest with. The previous Christmas that I spent in Saudi in 2010 was simply awful. Back then the word Christmas wasn’t uttered outside of the ex-pat circle. It was hard to find anything even remotely Christmassy and I didn’t have a single Arabic staff or patient wish me a Merry Christmas. That Christmas I had to work, and up until that point it was my first Christmas away from home. To say I was miserable was an understatement. I remember skyping family and friends back home and crying because I was so homesick.

Returning to Saudi this year I expected the holidays to go much the same as I had remembered, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. I came armed with some small Christmas decorations, but as I previously mentioned its not been very hard finding decorations and Christmassy things here. I channeled my inner Martha Stewart and made a fake paper Christmas tree to put up on my wall and hung decorations that I bought at a local store around our apartment. Friends of mine have Christmas trees with lights that they also were able to easily and legally purchase. Last week we had a “Holiday” themed party at work complete with Christmas lights and a secret Santa gift exchange. I had to work Christmas Eve and I had several Muslim co-workers wish me a Merry Christmas. It was very heartfelt and I really appreciated it. A family tradition of mine from back home is that we do a cheese fondue and seafood meal on Christmas Eve. I love everything about Christmas and this meal on Christmas Eve is something I especially look forward to. Since my dearest friends in Saudi were not quite as jazzed as I was about Christmas I wanted to try and include the fondue dinner tradition back home into a night here. But alas, fondue was not in the cards for us. So we went to a French restaurant which was ok, and then we went next door to Tim Hortons which I was super pumped about…..until I found out that they were out of coffee. Well the coffee of the takeaway variety, as I was looking forward to making fresh Timmie’s coffee every morning before work. The guy that worked there told me that they were waiting for the coffee to arrive from Canada and that they had been waiting about 6 months for that to happen. So that’s Saudi for you!!

So Christmas day we went for breakfast at a highly recommended restaurant called Paul’s. It was lovely. In fact, you could almost convince yourself that you were in a European cafe- except for the fact that there were abayas and thobes as far as the eye could see. If you’re in Riyadh you should go. They have a nice outdoor seating area, and delicious baked goods to take home for a treat later. After breakfast we did what any normal person would do on Christmas Day in Saudi Arabia. We went shopping for masquerade masks for a New Years party we’re going to. Then we opened gifts. I got some lovely things from my friends here, and some friends back home. And then later we went to a Christmas Party at a compound here and I ate turkey and listened to Christmas tunes. Then I skyped home for a while. And I didn’t even cry. Because although I wished I could be there, I was actually ok with being here.

So a belated Merry Christmas to all of you from inside the Kingdom. And all the very best in the upcoming year!

Love, Kristine

So last week I told you about how I visited Al Ula, and that part of our tour included a security envoy. Let me just say this was a first for me. It’s not everyday that I’m escorted places by a 17 year old Saudi cop, or a pair of 17 year olds and their police cruiser. (I’m not for sure that they were 17 as I didn’t think to check their ID but for the sake of this story we’ll say they were.) The reason for the security is that in 2007 French tourists in the area were targeted and 4 Frenchmen were killed,  so ever since security is required for western looking tourists. The morning of the first day of our tour the 17 year old cop stood guard while we visited a scenic overlook of Al Ula. By stood guard I mean he stood watching us with his mirrored aviator sunglasses unarmed. Which is odd because if we did run into trouble at best he could call for back up via his mobile phone. I mean lets be honest…..what was he going to be protecting us from? So we had a security escort that first morning. And then apparently the coast was clear because he was no where to be seen for the rest of the day.

10-4. Copy that.

Making sure the coast is clear.

Our group of 4 girls paired up with an Australian guy and a group including 3 Americans and a guy from Lebanon for our tour of Madain Saleh the following day (more on this to come.) Oddly, our security detail was MIA. To be fair we did start our tour at 8:30 am which by Saudi standards is far too early to get out of bed. After we toured Madain Saleh we parted ways with the other group as they had to drive to Hail to catch a flight back to Riyadh. This is where the real fun begins because apparently it was a bit of a no-no for them to drive the 4 hours back unescorted. Later that afternoon we were pulled over by the police and once they realized that the entire group was not together they started to sweat. Phone calls were made, voices were raised as they tried to track down the other group who was off the radar. From this point we had a full police escort until we flew out of Al Ula. I tried to convince them that it would be ok for me to sit up front, or to take fake photos of us being arrested or to drive everywhere with the lights and sirens going, but no, these kids were by the book. This was the first time in a long time that my blond locks failed me. We later heard from the other group that the cops did eventually track them down. They received a phone call while they were passing time at a local mall awaiting their flight. The officer requested they come immediately to the airport as he “couldn’t bear not knowing where they were any longer.” This I found very sweet!! So that’s the rather uneventful story of that one time I traveled with a security escort.

So this past weekend a Canuck, a Kiwi, a Yank, and a Czech went on a Saudi style adventure. One of the things I regretted the most after I left Saudi the last time was that I didn’t take advantage of traveling much within the country…..mostly beacuse I couldn’t wait to get out. One of the places I regretted not getting to see was to Madain Saleh, which is coined the Petra of Saudi Arabia. Since a person can’t just get a tourist visa to come and tour Saudi Arabia this was seriously at the top of my Saudi Part 2 bucket list. We organized the tour through the social club at my hospital and a kind man there booked our airline tickets, hotel, tour guide and security escort. Yes. You read that right. We had a security escort. I’ll fill you in on that later.

If you know me at all you’ll know 2 things about me. The first is that I love to travel. I would remortgage a home (if I were responsible enough to own a home) to travel. The second thing is that I’m terrified of flying. As in my stomach is upset the entire day before I fly and the only way I fly is highly medicated. And even medicated I might cry. And if you’re unlucky enough to end up sitting next to me you’ll likely have to hold my hand. And tell me stories to distract me from the crazy voices in my head. I don’t feel like I’m going to die on a daily basis, but get me on a plane and I’m convinced this is where it all ends. What I do love about flying is the security. Security gives me the false sense that everything is going to be ok. So when I’m running thru the likely scenarios of why the flight I’m on might crash I can cross bomb and terrorist off the list and focus more on the fact that that noise right there means we just lost engine one or that the pilot might fall asleep. Anyways, we arrive at Riyadh airport for our domestic flight and head over to security. Nobody asks to see my boarding card. No one asks to see my ID. Huh?. So we go through security, which involves going into a Ladies-only room where I get complimented about my blond locks and we get the security wand (you know the ones they use at concerts) and I’m starting to stress. Because I really want there to be one of those security machines where you plant your feet on the ground and the thing moves around you and if a person had breast implants you’d be able to see them so the crazy voice in my head knew that no one was getting on this plane with anything they shouldn’t. (Don’t get me wrong I think breast implants should be allowed on planes, but if you can see implants you know there’s no sneaking anything dangerous on.) But that didn’t happen. Because I never pulled my passport out. And there was no liquid limit enforced which I also find strangely comforting. So I medicated and we boarded the plane. And I didn’t die!!

Al Ula is a stressful 70 minute flight from Riyadh. Stressful for me- likely no biggie for you. Al Ula is in the northwest of Saudi Arabia about 400km from Jordan. Our guide told us that the population was around 70 000 and that they get around 100 000 tourist a year. The city is surrounded by rock formations that reminded me a lot of Jordan and was kinda like Sedona Arizona on a smaller scale. Every direction you looked there was some interesting mountain or rock to point out. Our guide Fayiz met us at the airport and we went back to the hotel. There are only 2 hotels in Al Ula and I was told that only one of them is suitable for western tourists so we stayed at Al-Ula ARAC Resort. It was a perfectly fine middle of the road hotel. Don’t expect luxury, but it was fine for what we needed it for. After a bit of a rest Fayiz picked us up in his slightly beat-up Chevy Grand Marquis. He then took us on a bit of a tour of Al Ula as the sun was setting. We visited a local “path” where women and children go to walk and we wandered there for a while and got chatted up by some local girls who shared their Arabic coffee and sweets in exchange for having their pictures taken with us. We then went back to the hotel for an enormous buffet dinner and retreated to our patio for non-alcoholic beers and a game of Cards Against Humanity. If you don’t know what this game is you should buy it immediately. Unless you don’t have a sense of humour in which case you will hate it and might also hate this blog.

The following day 4 other people joined our tour- oddly enough they ended up being contractors who worked at our hospital in Riyadh. So our car, their car, and our 17 year old Saudi police man’s car (our security escort) drove to this amazing overlook with views of Al Ula and the entire valley. Unfortunately there was a lot of smoke in the valley so the views weren’t super clear, but it was still really lovely.  From here we went for a hike to see a rock that looked like a dog. If you haven’t been hiking in an abaya I would highly, highly recommend it. Because climbing over rock isn’t dangerous enough until you do it in a full length mu-mu. I’m clumsy enough as it is without having to worry about my abaya trying to break my ankle. At the end of the short hike there was……you guessed it…..a rock that looked vaguely like a dog. So we took our photos on it. We then visited the old town. Which is partially in the state of being restored and partly in the state of complete ruin. As with most places in Saudi there is garbage tossed everywhere. Here was no exception. There is a castle overlooking the old town smartly named Al Ula Castle with great views. Its a great location for #selfies FYI. We then checked out elephant rock which…….you guessed it……is a rock that looks like an elephant. Well, vaguely like an elephant from the back side and quite a bit like an elephant from the front. Then we headed back into town and visited the Friday vegetable market.

By this point in the day it was siesta time (and Friday prayer time for our guide) so we had buffet lunch at the hotel which was super yum and then had kitty-cat naps. Then we visited a tomb site dating from the Dedanite Kingdom. These tombs were built into the side of a huge rock. We happened to arrive just as the afternoon prayer was starting so it was a really cool experience hearing the call to prayer as we were walking amongst the tombs. Our guide Fayiz took us to visit his brother’s farm where he keeps camels and grows oranges and lemons. We took turns driving an ATV around the farm at sunset. It was a pretty great day. Next week I’ll blog about our security envoy and Saudi’s version of Petra……Madain Saleh.

If you fancy a tour of the Al Ula area you can contact Fayiz at 0557647773 or [email protected]