Today marks the beginning of the holy month of Ramadan according to the Hegira calendar. Fasting is one of the 5 pillars of Islam, and takes place over the month of Ramadan. In accordance to their beliefs Muslims will abstain from food, drinking liquids, smoking, or sexual relation from dawn until dusk for the entire month. Exceptions are given to those traveling, pregnant or breastfeeding, the sick and the elderly. The fasting is broken after evening prayers, typically with dates and tea. At work Muslims have the option of working shorter shifts, and less shifts than their normal hours. Non-muslims must be respectful and inconspicuous. Chewing gum, or drinking water in public is not allowed. Drinking and eating must be done in private. Restaurants will be closed during the day, and the malls are said to open after evening prayer and will stay open until 2 or 3am. The religious police will likely be out in full force, so it’s not recommended for women to go out without covering their hair.
The last time I was here, I remember Ramadan as being very quiet during the day. Patients often slept most the the day light hours, and were awake late into the night. It was very festive. I recall having to adjust medication times for patients who were fasting during the day. Some of the sicker patients wanted to continue fasting despite health concerns, so they were instead given IV fluids during the day so they could fast from food as an alternative.
I’m currently traveling in Morocco for the first 2 weeks of Ramadan, so I’m unsure how this will affect our travel plans, although I’m sure we will have to make some adjustments. I’ll tell you all about it when I get back. And for any of my Muslim readers out here Ramadan Kareem….
There was an afternoon that I spent on the back balcony of our bungalow in the Maldives where the sea was perfectly calm. Where it was difficult to ascertain where the sea ended and the sky started. Where boats on the horizon appeared to be floating in the sky instead of sailing on the sea. The only thing that appeared to be moving were the fish jumping. They would momentarily break the otherwise calm surface. It felt, for that portion of the afternoon at least, as though time were standing still…..
On another note, I’m off to Morocco for the next 2 weeks. I can’t wait to eat some delicious food, catch up with my dear Yankee friend, and take about a million photos!!
At the end of April I spent 6 blissful nights in the Maldives. The Maldives are an archipelago of some 1190 islands in the Indian Ocean spread out over 90 000sq km. It is the lowest country in the world with an average elevation of 1.5m which has major implications with global warming and the rising of sea level. 80 % of the country actually lies less than 1m above sea level. Some reports state that these islands could disappear in the next 50 years resulting in the displacement of any entire country. The Maldives is a Muslim country that prior to converting practiced Buddhism. Given it’s natural beauty it’s no surprise that tourism is it’s main economy.
We flew into Colombo Sri Lanka, and then took a 90 min flight to the capital city of Male. From here we took a 20min seaplane flight to Veligandu Island Resort which was to be our home for 5 nights. The Maldives are synonymous with luxury travel. Most accommodations in the Maldives requires a seaplane or speedboat transfer to reach your resort. Often this adds on hundreds of dollars to the price of the hotel, which trust me is anything but cheap. I traveled with my kiwi sidekick and we booked 3 nights in a water bungalow with an all inclusive option and then 2 nights in a beach bungalow. There ended up being an issue with our original booking so we were upgraded to a water bungalow with a jacuzzi for the entire time. Too bad we weren’t on our honeymoon cause this place was super duper romantic, and obviously bursting at the seems with couples in love. So here we were 2 single gals just wanting to get our relax and drink on.
The bungalow we stayed in was gorgeous. We had a balcony with a couple lounge chairs and stairs that led into the water. We had a fully stocked mini bar, and all you could drink at the 2 bars on the resort. This was my first experience with an all-inclusive resort, and while it’s really not my thing I fully embraced all it had to offer. Champagne for breakfast? Yes, please. Mam, you want drinks at the pool? Yes. Please. More wine? Yes. The answer is always going to be yes. So I spent my time split between laying by the pool, swimming in the pool, or relaxing on our back balcony. We begrudgingly did all the romantic couple things like having dinner overlooking the beach by candle light, or taking a sunset dolphin cruise. To be completely honest it was such a beautiful vacation, but being around couples 24/7 took it’s toll. I’d like to say I rose above it, but sometimes I wanted to just yell at them to “get a room” and secretly took pleasure when some of them got irritated with each other. I’m not especially proud of this, but it’s just how I felt after spending 5 days on other people’s honeymoons.
We saw some of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever witnessed, and cherished the calm evening sound of the Indian Ocean brushing against our bungalow. We took a boat excursion to a local village and wandered in the alleyways listening to children recite the alphabet. We saw pods of dolphins doing acrobatics and playing with our boat. The water was so blue I’ll forever think of that colour blue as Maldivian Blue. We had some much needed down time, and I was able to reflect on where I’ve been, and where I hope I’m heading. I attempted to overcome my fear of water, and surprised myself (more on this in an upcoming post.)
Our last night in the Maldives was spent at a budget hotel on the same island as the international airport. It’s a quick 10 min ferry ride to the jam packed island capital of Male. This section of the Maldives is in a conservative Muslim area so alcohol is not allowed, and it’s recommended to dress a little more conservatively. It was nice to spend a night with the locals. There are a ton of budget hotels here, but I wouldn’t recommend staying here for more than a night or 2 as you have to take a speedboat to the western beaches if one wants to swim in the sea in what we consider a normal swimsuit. We didn’t get to explore the capital city of Male, which I would’ve like to have done had we more time. Pictures of the city show that literally ever square foot of it is taken up, and would’ve been interesting to explore. So that’s the Maldives. It’s so very worth seeing. But go with your lover, and not your best mate as you might be like me, and find all that newlywed gushy love a tad bit nauseating…..
Sometimes a sunrise is particularly amazing. Where it looks like an artist’s brush has painted hues of colour on the adjacent clouds. Or, where the sun breaking thru the clouds gives the impression of molten lava bubbling below the clouds surface. Yellow and orange turning into red. With coral hues softening into pale orange and yellow. This one took place 37000ft above the southern tip of India, on route to Sri Lanka. I awoke to see the light coming over the horizon and then watched it for some time completely mesmerized. Awestruck by the beauty of it. Momentarily forgetting my deep rooted fear of flying to concentrate on a single. Beautiful. Sunrise.
Its been a few months since I commented on the security situation in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. The reason is twofold. First I’ve spent a ton of time outside of Saudi traveling, and second, that there isn’t a ton of information put forward regarding what the actual risk level is. Information travels mostly by way of mouth here or via social media, which is good in that some information does eventually filter thru, and bad because often times these reports are embellished. Here’s what I do know. Security in public places is at the highest I have seen it during my time here (this includes the previous time I spent in Saudi after the Arab Springs.) As I’ve previously mentioned there is a much larger police presence than when I was here in 2010/2011. Since the end of April there has been a marked increase in security at local Riyadh malls amidst fear of suicide bombings. I’ve been to the malls a few times, and I can honestly say that this new “security” doesn’t make me feel any safer. Women are required to open their purses or bags for examination by an often bored lady who is most likely on her cell phone. She may or may not actually look in your bag. She most certainly will not care about what you might be hiding under your abaya. You know that large black cape women must wear that literally has room enough inside for a whole other person. Because obviously if you were going to carry something dangerous into a mall this wouldn’t be the first place you would carry it right?! It’s much less security than you would see at any concert or sporting event in the US. In no way do I feel safer by it.
Here’s what I also know from following the news……there have been several shootings of police officers here in Riyadh. Pretty much one incident a month since March. There was the arrest of some 93 people suspected of having ISIS ties, 2 of whom were planning an attack on the US Embassy in Riyadh. There was a suicide bombing last week that killed 21 men and injured around 100 others, for which ISIS has reportedly taken credit. UPDATE: Literally as I was writing this post I came across a Facebook message about a bombing that happened about an hour ago outside of a mosque in Dammam. Current reports say 4 people were killed. Reports are also suggesting that the bomber was dressed as a woman and was intending to enter the female section of the mosque. It does appear that security incidences are increasing.
That being said I have not heard of any incidents affecting ex-pat workers. While I have kept a slightly lower profile I haven’t felt anymore unsafe than I did prior to the increased security measures. In fact, last night over dinner with a couple of friends we discussed the absurdness of the fact that we went out to eat at a local mall where there was security for the sole purpose of catching someone who might attempt to take a bomb to the mall. This would seem crazy were we in a western country, but here in Saudi, such is life…..stay safe people.
Last month I spent 2 nights in Dubai prior to traveling to the Maldives, and 3 nights there on my way back to Riyadh. Dubai is awesome. To be fair, most places feel awesome after being confined in Saudi after any length of time, but I suspect had I visited from somewhere else I would’ve still loved it. Dubai is a booming city, with construction taking place everywhere you look. It is consumerism at it’s best and worst. It is completely man-made, there is nothing natural about it. Those are probably it’s biggest faults. Compared to Saudi it’s a taste of freedom. There is alcohol and bars to visit. Women can, and do drive. There are movie theatres, and women can try on clothing when shopping. What a revelation! And here’s the best part for all you Canadians out there…….there are Tim Horton’s all over the place. Literally everywhere, and it’s exactly the same as back home. In fact, that may be my favourite thing about being in Dubai was that it felt so dang familiar to me. It was like a trip back to Canada and the US all rolled into one. So many of my favourite shops and restaurants, places that we just don’t have in Riyadh.
Dubai waterfront
Well played Tim Hortons…
I’m not a huge shopper. In fact, normally when it comes to shopping I’m a get in and get out kinda gal. Usually after about an hour at the mall my eyes glaze over and I’m eying up the exits. You can imagine my surprise then that we spent the vast majority of our time at Dubai Mall. Mostly shopping. I know. We also saw a couple movies, and paid extra to watch Furious 7, VIP style. What’s VIP style you might ask? Well basically you get a reclining lazyboy chair with a blanket and a pillow and a waitress comes to you and takes your order. It’s pretty awesome. But don’t get too excited- booze are not available at the movies. Dubai I think you should look into this.
Besides being delighted by Dubai Mall we did the obligatory touristy things like having High Tea at the Burj Al Arab in the Jumeirah area. It was pricey, but lovely. Don’t make the same mistake as we did- arrive early as that’s your best change for getting a window seat with the best views. We were a little tardy, so missed out on this. By pricey, I mean it will cost you 620UAE ($170US). Yep I know it’s a little absurd. But I feel like it’s a you only live once kinda thing so we went. The service as you would expect was impeccable. Ours started out with stuffed dates and a strawberry pastry paired with a glass of Brut Champagne. This was followed by a tray of teeny tiny sandwiches, followed by a towering tray of pastries. It was very nice. The best part is that you get unlimited non-alcoholic drinks. Bottled water, soda, fresh fruit juices, any type of coffee, and a huge assortment of tea. The mint and the rose bud tea were my favourites. Then there is the view. The High Tea is held in the Skyview Bar on the top floor of the Burj. You have views of the Dubai skyline, as well as the Atlantis and The Palms, and the beach area below. It wasn’t a very clear day the afternoon we were there, but it was still impressive. High Tea is from 4pm-6pm, so you get to see the sunset. After tea we wandered around the over-the-top lobby of the Burj and took the obligatory tourist photos.
We spent a night out at a roof-top hookah bar called iKandy at the Shangri-La Hotel. It was far too trendy for us, so we took the party somewhere more our style and went to the Irish Village for the later part of an evening. The Irish Village is relaxed with tons of outdoor seating. Well worth the visit. The best thing we did though, was go to Friday brunch at Feast. It’s Dubai’s newest brunch place so be sure to make reservations if you go! It’s at the Sheraton Grand Hotel, and offers 3 different brunch options depending on if you want alcohol, and what type of alcohol you want. Naturally, we opted for the Moet champagne package which included any of the alcohol they serve and as much of it as you can consume. It will set you back 495UAE ($135US) and trust me, this is the first brunch I’ve ever been to that I feel I got my money’s worth. Service was on-point. We quickly informed our servers that we lived in Saudi Arabia and that based on that fact our glasses should never be empty. We normally had at least 3 glasses of some sort of alcohol topped up for our sipping pleasure. Now I know what you’re thinking……mixing alcohol is a recipe for disaster. And, you’d be dead right. But at the time, this was of little concern to me. The food is amazing. Fresh oysters. Fresh sushi station. Some lamb thingy that comes with23 types of garnishes. To be honest that’s all I remember trying, and there was a ton of other stations where they cooked everything up in front of you. They also paired wine with whatever food you were trying. I was basically in a food and wine heaven. I was also the most day-drunk I have been in recent history, and any plans for doing anything else that day were thwarted by the worst hangover I can remember in recent history. You win some, you lose some…..
So that’s Dubai. I have no doubt that I will return, in fact am already planning to do so in July. It’s such a lovely weekend break from Saudi, and feels like a little bit of normalcy. And obviously, I have unfinished business with Friday brunch at Feast, although hopefully this time I will learn from last time and go with the more food/less drink game plan!!! Next up………The Maldives………
Syria. Since March 2011 Syria has been making headlines. One would literally have to live under a rock to not be aware of the civil war which has been going on for over 4 years. Leaving at least 220 000 people killed. Some reports estimate that this number is in fact over the 300 000 mark. For my friends and family back home in Canada, that’s like the population of the city of Kelowna being wiped out. Twice.
I traveled in Syria in the fall of 2010- months before the civil war would make travel completely inadvisable, and change the face of that country forever. I feel fortunate to have seen the country, and meet its people before it made the headlines. I went with my dear American friend, and to date the land-border crossing from Jordan into Syria has been the funniest and most bizarre border crossing I’ve experienced. Basically we drew crowds everywhere we went, as people (mostly men) would cross the street and crowd around, everyone throwing in their thoughts as we tried to negotiate a taxi for the crossing, all the while clapping and applauding every time I attempted to speak Arabic. We spent 4 days in the city of Damascus and did a couple day trips to historical sites during our time there. I found the people to be kind and friendly. We had only one tense moment at the border where a man saw my friend’s passport and yelled “American” in a not-so positive tone, from then on we told everyone we were both Canadian, and never had any other safety issues. In fact we traveled via public bus, and had people go out of there way to give us directions, feed us, and generally make sure we enjoyed their country.
Damascus
Public Bus
So why am I writing this now? In the last week or so CNN and the BBC have almost on a daily basis had stories about the ancient city of Palmyra and reports that the entire site will likely be bulldozed as ISIS nears the site. As of Wednesday they have reportedly taken control of the site. Why does this matter? Why is this site significant? Why does this destruction matter?
On the most basic level this is the destruction of culture. Pure and simple. They are taking away the history of these places, and replacing it with a very grim future. In addition to the destruction of ancient sites in Syria, ISIS has destroyed a number of culturally significant sites in Iraq as well. The ancient site of Palmyra lies almost in the center of the country about 200km from Damascus. It dates from the Neolithic period, and was established in the 1st and 2nd century. It had major significance a caravan center on the trading route connecting Persia with the east. It is believed to be one of the best preserved historical sites in the Middle East, and became a UNESCO site in 1980. Today many of its statues have been removed in the hopes of preservation, but as you will see from my photos the site is extremely large, as are the many columns and remaining ruins, and therefore impossible to protect them.
This post is not meant to take light away from the death toll related to the Syrian civil war in anyway. And I’m not pretending to be any sort of expert on Middle Eastern conflict. I’m just shedding light on a place that in the following weeks may cease to exist. May be obliterated. Destroyed at the hands of people who wish to erase the culture of people who share different beliefs than they do. This post is meant to make you realize that if you put off traveling and seeing the world, the places of significance may cease to exist. Be it civil war, or an earthquake, or global warming. The earth is forever changing, and if you wait too long the only thing that may be left are photos on the internet, and memories in the heart of those who visited before you…
Where to start. I loved Copenhagen. Like seriously loved it, would move there in a second if I could find work there, kinda love. I spent 2 nights here, and most of that time was spend dreaming of what my life would be like if I lived there. Copenhagen had all the things I love about a big city- it was energetic, and clean, and cultured. It’s a very walkable city and as it’s built on the water. The waterways naturally add to its character.
Our hotel was situated a short walk from Nyhavn which is a super touristy row of colourful townhouses which house many bars and cafes along a waterway that’s full of large ships. To say it’s picturesque would be an understatement. We took a canal tour from here which sailed along the waterfront and down a couple of nearby canals. The architecture here is fascinating- it’s part modern meets 18th century factory buildings all rolled into one. We spent some time wandering near the Parliament- unfortunately the day we were there, there was some type of Islamic protest, so we steered clear. We walked to Christianshavn a nearby neighbourhood and climbed to the top of the spiral staircase at the Church of our Saviour. It had spectacular views of Copenhagen, but is definitely not for the faint of heart. There are 400 stairs to the top, the last 150 being a winding bunch outside. If you’re afraid of heights, just take it slow. If I was able to force myself up then I have no doubt that you can do it to.
We spend an afternoon on a true urban adventure to find the Carlsberg factory. I’m pretty sure I’ve never gotten so lost as we did on this brewery hunt. First off, there is a museum in Copenhagen called the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek. Don’t let the name fool you. This is NOT the Carlsberg factory. Nor is it any where near it. And if you happen to mistakenly go there, do not believe anyone who tells you that the factory is a 20 min walk from there. It is walkable, but only it you plan to walk all bloody day. Also if you think you’re a bit of a genious and hop on a local bus, and you ask the bus driver if this bus goes near the factory and he says yes, and 2 stops later he tells you that you’ve arrived, he quite likely is lying. If you ask 5 locals for directions and they all point in different ways, things are not looking up. So you will likely follow the most credible person, and after walking in the direction instructed you may or may not see a Carlsberg flag on an adjacent building. You may or may not high-five the people you are with, because by now you are really overdue for a cold beer. You might find yourself approaching said building, only to discover, that no, this is not the Carslberg factory, and that many, many buildings in the area have a Carlsberg flags. Crap. So ask directions again. Wander some more, and now you may or may not find yourself in an area with many Carlsberg flags, so things start to look up. And there are directions signs with the inscription “Visit Carlsberg” and as if to mock you, these signs are literally pointing in directions that you can’t go to because of construction. By now you will want to scream. Because its getting close to 4pm and they close at 5pm. So you may or may not find yourself climbing up a steep dirt embankment next to a skateboard park (coincidentally these skateboarders were drinking Carlsberg beer) and finally, finally, arriving at the factory. At 4:10pm. When the last tour was at 4pm. So then you may or may not tell a sob story to someone who works there, who at least gives you a coupon for a free beer. And you may or may not sit there sipping your free beer all the while trying to figure out how the hell you will get home. Or you may just decide to take a taxi directly there. That’s what I would do if I were you.
So there you have it. An eventful 2 days in Copenhagen. A city I have no doubt I will meet again. Likely sooner than later!! Happy travels…
After spending 3 nights in Sweden we crossed the border into Finland. We traveled by bus to Rovaniemi from the border city of Haparanda/Tornio. Rovaniemi is famous the world over for being the home of Santa Claus- in fact he lives just north of the town center on the Arctic Circle. (More on this later). The other reason we wanted to visit Finnish Lapland (apart from Santa) was that we wanted to spend a night in a glass igloo, and more importantly, I wanted to see the Northern Lights from the inside of a glass igloo!!
Originally, we had planned to travel to the very northern area in Finland to stay in these igloos. If you spend any time on Instagram or Pinterest then I’m sure you’ve seen the photos. Sadly, we were running out of time to make the trek there so we opted for a different igloo experience closer to Rovaniemi. We spent 1 night at the Arctic Snow Hotel which is about a 30 min taxi ride from the town center. The Snow Hotel was a bit of a let down after spending a night at the Ice Hotel in Sweden, but the glass igloos where super cool. The were all self sufficient with a domed glass ceiling with picturesque views of the sky. Ours had 2 super comfy twin beds, with a decent sized bathroom and shower. Insider tip: the beds are electronic, so they can be adjusted into chair positions which unfortunately we didn’t find out until the following morning, but would have been really cool to gaze at the northern lights in.
On site is the Snow Hotel (duh) which had that kinda yellow colouring of old snow. The bar and snow restaurant on the inside were pretty neat. There are a couple hot tubs, and saunas which you have to book in advance. There are also a few different dining options depending on whether you want to eat dinner in a cottage near the lake, or in the Snow Hotel. You can also borrow snowshoes, or try your hand at ice fishing while there. We were really, really lucky the night we spent there because we were able to see an amazing display of the Northern Lights. I also got to teach my winter-naive kiwi sidekick how to chill a bottle of wine in a snow bank in the middle of a Finnish winter without the availability of a fridge. It might have literally blown her mind!!
After our night of Northern Lights bliss we headed back to the town of Rovaniemi which was to be our base for another 3 nights. This was March 2nd and there was a very visible solar eclipse that I nearly went blind from taking photos of and was pretty cool to witness. Don’t worry Mom my eyesight is back to normal now! The first thing we did once we got back to Rovaniemi was go visit our boy Santa. Anyone who knows me knows I love Christmas. Like seriously love it. I was pumped to visit Santa’s workshop and wander in the Christmas Village. And then we got there. And surprise, surprise there were like a million tourists and tourist buses. And while Santa was great, the lines, and general kitchiness of the place was a major let down. But we did get our photo taken with Santa and asked him to bring us both husbands for Christmas. And we did get our photo taken straddling the Arctic Circle. And the coolest thing of all was that you can mail postcards that have the official Santa’s Village stamp. Well I thought it was cool……
Solar Eclipse
Santa Hall of Fame
We spent the rest of our time in Rovaniemi wandering the town. We spent an afternoon at Arktikum Museum which tells the story of the Arctic Circle and is also a science center. We spent a morning dog-sledding which is something I’ve wanted to do for a while. We got to drive the sled with 5 mischievous dogs. It was freezing cold (about -10C) and we spent about an hour and a half outside. Thankfully, winter clothes were provided so it wasn’t super unpleasant. After dog sledding over snowy trails and frozen lakes, we got to visit the kennels and cuddle some baby huskies. They melted my nearly frozen heart. And I seriously had to resist the urge to steal a couple of them.
The Finnish Lapland is a magical place. I mean if it’s good enough for Santa it’s well worth the visit!! From here we flew to Copenhagen……..
“The universe gave us three things to make life bearable: hope, jokes, and dogs. But the greatest of these was dogs.”Robyn Davidson from her book Tracks.
Loss comes in many forms and can take on both a physical and emotional component. It can take the form of loss of future dreams, loss of physical things, or it can take on a very permanent form as it does with death. Last night my family had to put down our beloved family mascot Hercules. He was old. And it wasn’t completely unexpected, and yet even though it was for the best, it’s still really upsetting. Some of you who read this blog may have a difficult time understanding how emotional this concept can be. How someone can grieve for an animal, or how animals can play such a large role in a persons life. This is not an uncommon phenomenon in Western cultures where animals (especially dogs) are considered to be members of a family. Often times the bond one has with a pet takes on very human qualities. Hercules started out as my brother’s dog, and then in his later years he became the family dog, and then my Pops sidekick. People often refer to their animals as their family. As their children.
In some ways the bond between a human and a pet is stronger than that between 2 humans. A dog after all, only wants to please its owner. Only wants to show love and affection in return for the same. A dog will be unwaveringly loyal. If you show them love them will only ever see your good qualities. Hercules was often aloof. He wasn’t super affectionate in a physical sense, but rather showed affection by following you around. If you were his person he didn’t want you out of his sight. He was a gentle soul. A protector. A lover of humans and equally so of human food. He was a very spoiled boy who will be missed.
So goodbye Hercules. You served our family well. You showed love and were loved dearly in return. Rest well….
Today marks the beginning of the holy month of Ramadan according to the Hegira calendar. Fasting is one of the 5 pillars of Islam, and takes place over the month of Ramadan. In accordance to their beliefs Muslims will abstain from food, drinking liquids, smoking, or sexual relation from dawn until dusk for the entire month. Exceptions are given to those traveling, pregnant or breastfeeding, the sick and the elderly. The fasting is broken after evening prayers, typically with dates and tea. At work Muslims have the option of working shorter shifts, and less shifts than their normal hours. Non-muslims must be respectful and inconspicuous. Chewing gum, or drinking water in public is not allowed. Drinking and eating must be done in private. Restaurants will be closed during the day, and the malls are said to open after evening prayer and will stay open until 2 or 3am. The religious police will likely be out in full force, so it’s not recommended for women to go out without covering their hair.
